Setting Up The First Section

The 4-way traffic signal body is comprised of twelve individual body pieces just as the signal was originally manufactured. Four pieces fit together to form a single section of the traffic light. The first step is to combine together the four pieces in place so they can be glued together. This can be done in one of two easy ways. The first is with our traffic light assembly jig. The second is by using four medium size paper clips.

Putting The Three Sections Together

At this point, you are ready to begin stacking the sections together to form the full body of the 4Way traffic light. Each section should firmly snap into the section below. Ensure all four sides are fully seated before applying your glue. Once glued, it is very difficult to correct any mistakes. Allow time for each section to cure before attaching the next one.

Once assembled, this is when you want to apply your paint. Enamel paint is recommended, although acrylic paint will work. However, acrylic does not adhere well to the cured resin.

For the most realistic appearance, fully paint the model completely, inside and out. Take care to spray from various angles to ensure even coverage in all of the small nooks and crannies. For best results, two or more coats are recommended.

Placing The Top & Bottom Covers

Now you are ready to attach the top and bottom covers. After they have been painted separately, each one will set in place snugly for gluing. Apply the glue to the cover up-side down so as to prevent glue dripping down the framework of your painted 4way traffic signal body. Allow plenty of time for the glue to dry before flipping it over and gluing the other cover into place.

Installing The Reflector

The reflector is universal for both the 4 way traffic light as well as the single facing traffic signal. The reflector is designed to sit on the supports which extend inward from the inside of the main opening. They may be glued in place, but it is not necessary. It is definitely not recommended if you are going to install a traffic signal sequencer inside of the housing so you can easily access the circuit board if necessary.

If you are installing the LED lighting kit, you’ll want to solder and prep the LEDs prior to installing the reflectors. The LED openings in the reflectors are purposely smaller than the diameter of the LEDs. This is to allow you the ability to size the hole perfectly for placing the LEDs.

Installing The Signal Lenses

Installing the lens is pretty straight forward. The lens sits inside four raised mounting bosses just as they do in real life. It’s easiest if you place the hood into the opening of a raised object, such as a spool of FDM filament, so as to allow the door to sit perfectly flat. With the door ready, place the lens into the opening with alignment arrow facing up (left).

I recommend using canopy glue because it’s easy to see what you’re doing as you apply it to the edge of the lens. This helps prevent applying too much and having it ooze onto the face of the lens. When it dries, it is perfectly clear and completely unnoticeable.

Installing The Doors & Eyebolts

Installing the doors and the eyebolts can be tricky. I use 1mm diameter stainless steel rod for the eyebolts and .7mm stainless steel rod for the hinge pins. The rod needs to be cut to the proper height. To assemble the pieces together, the trick is to place a dab of glue just inside of the bottom hole on the bottom side and give it a moment or two before inserting the small cut hinge pin into place. Tweezers make this much easier. The pin hole may need to be cleaned up with a micro drill if paint has gotten inside and made the opening too small for the pin to be inserted.

For the eyebolts, you’ll notice that one side of the “eye” has a flat edge. This is to make assembly easier and to allow it to be moved into place to secure the doors. This flat edge is to be oriented to the be flush with the body when closed.

Another Option

If you are not concerned with the extra detail and functionality, you can easily glue the doors onto the 4way signal body and skip the hinge pins. I still recommend placing the eyebolts in place for the sake of authenticity. The signal will look incomplete without them.

In Conclusion

Obviously assembly and painting is a little more involved than this short document conveys. It’s up to you to decide how detailed you want to be with your light. These were designed to be a realistic as possible. But it does time some time an patience to duplicate the results you see here.

Good luck with your project. Please send some pictures of the finished signal so I can see how yours turns out. What color(s) and how it’s displayed.

Thank you for your support and patronage.

Michael Netherton
Owner